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 Sweden
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愧
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斯德哥尔摩夏天终于来了。虽然气温并不算太高，但是阳光直射到大地，没有半点云层阻拦，感觉还是很热的。生活依旧，每天都要花时间学习英语，做作业。
邻居一个中国女生的父母来了，准备在这里待上一个月。我见着他们的时候，也过去打了下招呼。
那个女生今年2月开始在爱立信工作了，真是叫人羡慕。学理工科的工作总是比较好找些。很长一段时间，我一直很有感慨。出国三年了，许多梦想和目标像流星一样在我心中的天空划过。我没想过它们是那么缥缈和遥不可及。我是使足了劲去追逐的。那时，我没有失去孩子般的天真和执拗，用理想的美好来激励自己前进。许多次选择，许多次失败，许多次转折，直到现在，发现时光和金钱已剥夺了我再追逐的意义。即使如果时光倒流，我会想去改变一些计划，我也永远不会后悔。
我一直认为有梦想的人是值得欣赏的，就像孩子一样纯真，在想象中给世界绘色。我已不再是孩子，可是我愿意保持孩子般的一些稚气和真诚。或许这样会使我在混杂的社会中尽量独立，不被埋葬。
爱情的浪漫是瞬间的，总会走向婚姻，走向琐碎。
梦想也罢，幸福也罢，总还是要面对现实。我不得不承认当看到那对和我父母年龄相仿的父母，我心里是多么沉重。我曾经梦想过把爸爸妈妈接过来玩。他们一辈子都没有去过很远的地方，辛辛苦苦地供我们出来读书，这将是我用来报答的一份礼物。可是，到现在，我无能为力，我现在需要先养活自己。而且，我即将离开瑞典，也许是永远地离开，这个梦想或许只是个美好的愿望了。他们并不是很了解我在欧洲生活学习的感受。但我知道，他们一定以为我将永远留在瑞典。周围认识我们的人也都会这么认为。我想我不会去解释我为什么回国，任凭他们猜测，我懂得我自己的价值所在，我也不在乎无关紧要的旁人的评论。
在自己寻找的道路上坚持走下去，我不敢说结局，但我坚信我会成长，我的光芒会撒遍这条道路。
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圆明园
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历史上曾经有那么几天，就像这种浓烈的红色，在一块奇迹般的土地上扫荡。无法想象，黑烟弥漫，烈焰的魔爪任意肆虐。。。。。。
之后，只剩下废墟，残垣断瓦，我们称之为‘遗址’。人类最辉煌的奇迹就这样消失在世界上，被除得那么干净，几乎不留得一点痕迹。
它真地消失了，但是，我希望它并没有在所有中国人的心中消失！
今天偶然看了一部纪录片《圆明园》，有种从梦中惊醒的感觉。心情非常沉重，不由得自省起来。来瑞典三年，感受着欧洲舒适的生活，优越的环境，发达的设施，另类的文化。我沉醉，这是一种无法表达的倾心。还有学习时尚之后，对于从西方发展的服饰流行文化的痴迷也是与日俱增。我沉浸在浮华的裙摆飞扬的欧洲舞会和上个世纪时装大师的审美创造中。我下意识地去记忆冗长的欧洲名字，品牌历史，风格样式。我认真思考西方社会学家文化学者的难以理解的观点论断。。。。。。
我最后一次念唐诗是什么时候？最后一次看类似这种中华文明的纪录片是在什么时候？最后一次看中国经典小说是什么时候？最后一次画仕女图或写书法是什么时候？。。。。。。
好久好久了，似乎。忽然间，我觉得自己的根还是深深地扎根于中华大地。即使在他乡，我对这点毫不怀疑。我本来就没有想过呆在国外一辈子，甚至换国籍。我永远无法理解那些宁愿在外国打一辈子工的人；我也永远无法想像自己的儿女，长着中国人的脸，却说着瑞典语，对中国一点都不了解。
小的时候，我觉得自己有种清高和士人的精神，难道这种情愫又重新在我的内心里生长？人是要成长的，而且必须在他无法左右的社会中去摸爬滚打，我也不会例外。虽然没有进入社会，但是日渐成熟，日渐现实。奋青们的高昂斗志和嫉恶如仇，在我都是一种高不可攀的情操了。我只是需要保持一点清醒，保留一些对历史和文明的敬仰。如果我能为此做些什么，那么我会更加满足。
一张张设计图，描绘图把我带进了那个世界上最辉煌的园林。建筑设计，包括园林，房屋建筑，都融会了古人的审美情趣和深邃的文化内涵。中国的园林就像中国的画一样，是灵魂和意念的诠释，是神大于形的展现。
思绪一下子跳到现在国内人们大兴土木，大呼‘科技兴国’，崇洋媚外等等。中国的文明，中国曾经灿烂辉煌的文化艺术，到哪里去了？一定会被商品社会，被恶臭的利欲所侵蚀吗？民间艺术也在慢慢衰亡，中国很多传统文化的精髓都在消失。反而一些劣根性却似乎根深蒂固地残留下来，并影响着社会的方方面面。
我觉得圆明园可以算是中华文明的最高峰。在那之后，直到现代，再也没有如此的灿烂和辉煌。虽然，现在眼前看到的是欣欣向荣的景象，可是在文化上，比如人们的素质，人们的思想和创造力呢？是很平平的吧。人们为钱奔波，为任务发表学术文章，为明星梦学艺术，为好工作学英语。。。。 所有的事情都建立在一个‘名利’的肤浅的想法上。真正的思考和创造力在哪里？人们似乎都还没有意识到文化的重要性和价值。如果觉得学习古代文化艺术，就是不合时宜，那是非常浅薄的。我们还是可以借鉴很多有价值的东西，可以使得人们在这个浮躁的世界挖掘心灵的深度，保持一个智慧平和的心态。人之所以为人，不是在于衣食住行，而是在于思考。
火烧圆明园，像是烧在了我心上。总想问，要是没有被毁，会怎样？历史不可能逆转。但，我们必须牢牢记住。
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仲夏节过后
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上周末是仲夏节，这是瑞典很有民族特色的传统节日。天气不是很好，我又忙着写文章，上课，就这么过去了，都忘了提醒一下自己写写东西留念一下。其实倒也没什么可以留恋的，日子就这么过去，平平淡淡，任我自己安排。07年的夏天，我在作保姆的时候有幸和瑞典人家过了一个正宗的仲夏节，吃大餐，围着仲夏树跳舞等等，也算是感受到了瑞典的风情。今年就无所谓了。
闲得无聊，就买了一个网络课程上上。教英语的，学了几课，觉得不难，但是作业很多，总要花很多时间写一堆的东西。不过，花钱请老师也算很值了，因为那个辅导老师很负责，作业看得很认真，给我了详细的反馈。我只希望自己尽快把课上完，在我回国前可以得到这两个证书就好了，不过学习不能太急，还是要慢慢吸收的。
偶尔有机会给一个时尚杂志和一个时尚网站写东西，上周就写了一些。从选题立意到写作到搜集图片，我很享受这种过程。我甚至获得了采访一个设计工作室的机会，让我兴奋不已。我觉得自己非常适合做这种工作-撰稿。即使没有什么文采飞扬的笔法，也还是有话可说且并不无聊。今天我的一篇稿子被登在网上了。虽然不过短短的一篇，也没有什么稿费，我还是很高兴的，至少我的文字可以被更多的人看到了。
也许这可以为我以后走上时尚编辑的岗位铺路。不管怎样，我在做我喜欢的事情。
今天下午，我见了一个从加拿大来的朋友，是我做志愿者翻译的那个网站的负责人之一。她是一个来自罗马的女生，在加拿大读的大学，至今已经5年了。 她长得瘦瘦小小的，有点黑，看起来年纪不大。她来斯德哥尔摩做调查的，主要为了她的硕士论文。我做了饼干，还买了点心招待她，不过她并没有吃很多，我们就坐在客厅里聊了聊天。然后在国家公园里走了走。她还有和加拿大那边的同事的网络会议，于是我就送她走了。
今天天气不错，终于有夏天的感觉了。希望阳光一直持续下去啊。
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HM VS Jimmy Choo
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H & M全新的激动人心的设计合作！
我们早就熟知H & M经常和大牌的设计师们合作创造出一般人都可以支付的时尚服饰。今年媒体都在猜测秋季他们将会和谁合作。现在答案终于揭晓。H & M将第一次和饰品配件品牌合作，它就是英国的鞋类品牌Jimmy Choo.
在好莱坞，Jimmy Choo 基本上是走红地毯必备的单品了。相信谁都不会忘记欲望都市中凯丽对于JC鞋的狂热喜爱. 即将发布的这个系列将以鞋为主打，但也会设计其它很多饰品。世界上最大的零售时尚品牌和相对较精英化的配件品牌的第一次亲密接触，无疑是值得大家期待的。Jimmy Choo的创建人和主席Tamara Mellon 说合作的新款依旧会成熟优雅，有魅力而且时髦，并且适合各种搭配。11月14日，这个系列即将在各大店面上市，记下这个不能错过的日期吧!
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心情慢慢转变
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前两天订了一套网上TEFL的课程，送一套商务英语的课，觉得应该还不错，反正现在没有什么事，就学学看，拿了证书以后也还是有用的。今天指导老师发给我授课的材料，课程大体介绍和第一课的内容，以及作业。我自学了，然后认真地写了作业。这样一个个Unit下去，应该还是可以学到很多东西的。我打算尽可能在7月底结束，然后8月就可以拿到推荐信和TEFL证书了。
这几天同时还在写一些时尚类的文章。一方面给一个新创办的杂志投稿，另一方面在给一个网站写东西。我的想法很多，打算以后一个个好好写。学习时尚研究一年了，我对于这个话题有很多想法。阅读了大量英文书后，我也获得了些灵感。国内时尚文章很多，但是真正从深刻角度来剖析的并没有很多。我不是说我想深度解析时尚，而是觉得在深刻了解时尚这种社会文化现象后，我可以从更多角度去发掘话题，在评析一些时尚现象时也会更加得心应手。当然，一般的时尚媒体，如杂志和网站，面对的是普通读者，他们没有相关知识，他们也不需要深刻地了解，他们阅读时尚杂志的初衷多是为了完美外形，为了满足自己的虚荣心和浮华的欲望。所以，时尚文章需要用浅显，生动，优美的文字来达到他们的期望，也要满足他们猎奇的好奇心。我经常看国内的时尚网站，同样的文章抄来抄去-或许杂志会不一样吧- 难道就真的缺乏创新能力？这我就不知道了。我是觉得一定要吸引人和独创的东西，一定要有卖点。
写自己热爱的话题，写自己觉得有价值的文章，是很幸福的事情。经过了前一阵子的心情的颠簸，我现在终于平静下来。学习英语教师的课程，写写时尚文章，或许还画点画，这样的生活是多么美好。
今天听妈妈说上海的公司打电话来通知面试。我后来一查电话号码，是一个出版社。我前两天才投的，这么快就回复了，我都很诧异。我应聘的是文学编辑的职位，真是很适合我的，我也希望从事和文字有关的工作，不过不知道等我回国以后还有没有机会。看情况吧，这次心情比较平和了，我相信我能找到喜欢的适合我的工作。
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快女-盛夏的娱乐大餐
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很多人听闻‘快女’，马上露出鄙夷的神情，然后故作高深地评价-不过是一场愚人秀或者，就是幕后黑手操纵的无聊节目。我很佩服湖南电视的娱乐精神和炒作能力，不管评价是褒是贬，有争议就是好的。而且在中国这种社会，出现什么新鲜事物，总是会惹来许多谴责。依传统行事惯了的人都很脆弱，受不了新鲜事物强大电流的刺激，自然要叫停；还有是大量的伪君子，打着冠冕堂皇的旗号，掩饰其嫉妒的真实心理。人红了，就有人不服，就有人排挤了，就像范冰冰一样。
其实，既然是娱乐，就根本不用追究过多的道德，公正，或是正确性。流行文化当道，主宰后现代社会的就是瓦解真理的精神。没有统一的规定，没有标准，充分尊重个体的特性，给与个体公平的机会。用巴赫金的话来讲，就是大众狂欢。但是，所有的东西都是相对的，都有限制。快女的舞台是面对了所有追求歌唱梦想的女孩，但是比赛遵循的赛制是既定的，获胜的选手是评委选出来的。萝卜白菜各有所爱。即使是三个评委，也很难做到完全客观公正。而且，最重要的一点是电视台制作这个节目的目的，当然不是为了使这些女孩实现梦想，而是巨大的盈利。一是巨额的广告效应和赞助，二是为电视台储备艺人人才，三是湖南电视自身品牌效应的提升。所有的一切都是为了众人的注目，都是为了高收视率。这是毫无疑问的。评委们口口声声说要选手们唱出自己的风格，可是个人的风格还得他们喜欢才行。所以，其实，结果根本就不重要。像以前的李宇春，张含韵等等，唱的并不怎样，可还是得到了认可。没有晋级并不表示唱得不好，尤其是最后几十强的比赛，大多数都唱得很好，不比一些发片的歌手差。晋级的也不表示唱得很好。最后的比赛进入白热化，在高手如云之中，一定要看市场潜力和整体实力个性的。唯一好的一点是它提供了一个展现的机会，可以让更多人关注你，也许喜欢你的觉得你符合他们口味的就会把你挖掘走，你仍然可以曲线进入演艺圈。也许，你已经拥有了自己的粉丝团，未来自然不是梦。
这几天无聊中看了晋级比赛。稍有感慨。我喜欢的尹王雪和夏文婧都被淘汰了，让我觉得颇为可惜。而唱得不行的假小子张佑方却一直挺进20强，让我颇感意外。不过站在市场的角度，张佑方人气高，会搞气氛，舞台魅力了得，而且中性帅气个性十足，为比赛增加了看点。尹王雪的声音真的是非常悠扬，天籁般。连评委都说她毫无差错，还说就像一幅油画。确实，她的声音高亢嘹亮，音域宽，色彩浑厚饱满。可是她不漂亮，不会喧闹不会带动气氛。她只会用自己的声音来感染大家，和其他一些会弹会跳的人比，综合能力稍显薄弱。况且，还有其他人声色俱佳的。所以，她唱得很好，可是她必须被淘汰。她的命运是注定的。而夏文婧是长沙赛区唯一一个拿到直接通行证的。看她戴着牛仔帽弹着吉他，用圆润清凉的嗓音唱出乡村风格的音乐，确实是一种享受。她的唱功没得说，可我不知道为什么她连进入第二轮比赛的资格都没有，而明显的有一些人没有她唱得好。
总结出来，评委喜欢的人是漂亮的唱将，不漂亮的就要有个性，而中规中矩的就没有意义了。娱乐秀关键在于看点。连评委的点评其实也是秀的一部分，其实也不需要过分看重这些。他们选择他们想要的人。参赛的你可以选择永远做自己，也可以选择被他们的指明灯照着学习着前进。
在流行文化盛行的时代，人们都热衷于娱乐和自我展现。世界各地都有自己的娱乐秀，让众人参与，让草根变成明星，中国也不例外。不用想太多，只需打开电视，轻松轻松，享用一下这道盛夏的娱乐大餐，也是不错的。
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Walking to the downtown
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I walked to the city center this afternoon. It is finally turning to sunny day today, so I decided to go out for a walk. I did not know the direction exactly, just had some rough impression. I was not in a hurry. I took my mp4 with me and walked in a speed I liked. I just idled around, looked into the stores on the side of the street. I did not know how much time it cost to go to the center, but it seemed that not too long and I could bare it. I went to some fashion stores. There were many stores starting summer big sale. I went to the brand- Weekday which I had seldom notice.
  The design of the store was so cool. The glasses on the walls and ceiling enlarged the space and made people dazzled. The clothing were made different poses on the walls without mannequins. The low tables and hanging rod were used to create a diversified look. It had tree floors. I would have never imagined it was so large. In fact, the style of this brand was very similar to Monki which I liked very much. They were targeted at teenagers, though Monki was only for girls. I wrote an article about the store design of Monki today so I became more familiar with the brand. When I stepped into the store of Weekday, I felt much similar to Monki in the design of clothing. They were all casual, simple, biased cut, androgynous and colorful. There were many oversize clothings. I detected that many Nordic beautiful girls with slim body and long legs liked to wear simple and oversized clothes. Of course, they liked to show their beautiful legs usually so they wore leggings and fit denims very often, but they liked big clothes sometimes. I think this style is also chic and perfect to them.
I went to some other stores, just wandering and seeing. I did not buy anything. I knew the big sale had just started, there would be more sales in the next two months. I wanted to wait and found some good branded clothes and shoes with affordable prices.
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bad weather bad mood
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It has been cold for a long time, rainy sometimes and chilly. I dont like this summer. I dont know whether it is because I am worried about my career all the time or the bad weather. Perhpas both. I am not in a good mood these days. Even when I am sleeping, I am thinking about the future career. I tried to relax and not to think about this, but it seems that I cannot help. The bad weather makes me feel even worse. It isjune now, but it is still around 11 degree in Stockholm. The news said Stockholm would meet the coldest summer start in several decades.
I finally handed in my paper today, so I finished everything now. It means that I will have two months free time before I come back home. To me, it is quite long, since I desire to work almost immediately. But when I come back to China, I dont know when I will have time to come here again. I think it is good time to enrich myself, to read more books or take some online course. I will also go out to collect some materials which may be helpful for my future career. I will record wonderful moment and extroardinary images. I will try to let my mind go freely. I need more inspirations!
I borrowed some books about fashion, design and visual merchandising. I really fancy this wonderful world. I feel myself addicted to fashion like I am enchanted by a witch. One day, I happened to read an article talking about the potentials to be a fashion editor. Some words are like this:
潜质1：生活规律不正常
三种专业出身的学生最适合做时尚编辑：一、服装专业。因为他们有专业的背景并具有一定的艺术感觉，总比外行人进门后连一些基本的专业术语都听不懂要好。二、中文专业。本身语言文字底子就比较强，多半还可能在报社等媒体中有过实习经验，很适合做专题类的版面。三、英语专业。现在很多时尚杂志都是版权合作的类型，从事 版权沟通方面的工作可以接触许多外刊以及国际部的同事，视野能得到拓宽，自身今后的发展也比较多元化。当然，这份职业还有一定的个性需要。假如你是一个喜 欢在夜晚十点后换上另一套装扮出席各种酒吧宴会夜夜笙歌的夜生活热爱人士，那么这份工作的确挺适合你。有人说，这份工作适合一切生活规律不正常的人。
———《时尚Cosmo》服装编辑Junat
潜质2：要能成为多面手
时尚编辑就是“作者＋财务＋快递＋公关＋造型师”，大部分时间需要沉下心来乖乖坐在电脑前呆着看稿子和改稿子，一遍一遍核查产品的名称和价格，处理从追稿子、借东西、租场地一直到和作者、摄影师讨价还价、要发票等琐事。这对耐心和时间管理能力都是很好的锻炼。但如果一想到时尚编辑，就只想到五光十色的时 尚舞台、各种名牌、可炫耀的生活，那可能多半要失望了，也很容易迷失自己。
———《《ELLE》美容总监Helena
潜质3：文化底蕴加职业操守
时尚编辑是一份独立而又孤独的工作，做这一行的人，应该已经具备不把明星当回事儿的境界，懂得接触明星只不过是出于工作中的合作。假如采访拍片时还讪讪 地问人家要签名，自己所代表的杂志形象不是颜面无存？其次，时尚编辑可并非仅仅是编辑文字，对于很多大牌背后的文化如果知识匮乏，如何穿透现象去剖析问题、撰写出有深度的文章呢？最后，这也是一份需要严格遵守职业操守的工作，面对行业中满地的诱惑，你能过得了这个关吗？
———高档时尚杂志编辑KULA
潜质4：坚定的意志力
如果第一份工作是时尚编辑，最多是有练笔和采访的机会,对于以后在媒体的发展，还要看自己的造化。初涉世的大学毕业生在收入尚低的情况下，接触的却都是远离自己生活档次又极具诱惑力的东西，这之间的差距很容易让人产生挫败感，或者变得虚荣心徒增，这些都不是自身很有利的发展。只有坚定的意志力，才能在时尚行业中坚守。
———时尚手册编辑Ella
After reading this, I think except the first one, I have all the other personalities and potentials. I feel this is my ideal job and I will fulfill my value in the career. But it seems that to find this kind of job is not easy. To go to some famous fashion magazine is more difficult. But nothing is easy, it is not an excuse to give up. I will strive for this aim. In addition, I like to do other part time jobs. I dont think I will do the same jobs all my life. I like new challenges and I like to change. Yes, just like fashion itself, it must embrace change and novelty.
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今夏必备单品
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今天看到一篇博客文章写得今夏装扮的必备7单品，觉得不错。这些包括：
1。长裙
2。短裙
连衣短裙是我非常喜欢的。款式多样，可以有很多种选择和搭配。我个人最喜欢A字裙，蓬蓬的公主裙，以及上大下收的包裙。
3。斜肩
个人觉得不太好穿出来，对身材要求也很高。不过还真是挺酷的，性感指数高。
4。厚底超高跟鞋或防水台鞋
这个就不用说了，现在是大热的。我自己就非常想拥有一双。
5。热裤短裤
要秀美腿，这个是必备了。不过我觉得不是很胖的女生都可以穿的，短裤还会使腿显得更长，，视觉上身材比例会更好。
6。柳钉
金属质感的装饰有点朋克味道。合适的混搭可以中和女性的柔媚，让整体看起来硬朗一些。
7。角斗士鞋
这些看起来像链索的设计迅速流行起来。和柳钉装饰品，中性风的服装倒是挺配的。不过我不大感兴趣了。 
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Postmodernism and fashion
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I am very interested in post-modernism. When examing fashion in this discourse, I found the design of the clothes from the middle of last century till the end really conveyed the core spirit of postmodernism. I once wrote a paper on postmodernism and fashion with a case of 1960s fashion. I will reveal some points here:
The main characteristics of Postmodernism that impress me most are:
1) Death of reality. Baudrillard has invented the idea of ‘real’ and ‘hyperreal’ in explaining the concept of simulation[1]. He refers to hyperreal as this: ‘the real and the imaginary are confused and aesthetic fascination is everywhere so that ‘a kind of non-intentional parody hovers over everything, of technical simulating, of indefinable fame to which is attached an aesthetic pleasure’[2]. In his opinion, when aesthetics invades every corner of the modern world, the differences between reality and imagination have been minimized. Technical simulating has effaced the uniqueness of one product from others. Mass production creates millions of things with the same face and the same function. We are content with consuming the representation. The fading of boundary between art and life, the stylization of daily life, the reduplication of consuming products in mass production, thousands of ideals and fantasies created by mass media…all of these indicate the death of reality.
2) De-centering. It illustrates ‘a challenge to assumptions about what is central or proper by shifting focus to include or highlight that which has been devalued or ignored’[3]. After the World War, people were awakened by the fragile reality. Power and authority were hated, while freedom and democracy were embraced. The world was changing. People started to doubt the traditional regulations and conventions which once were taken for granted. Opposition to the authority was springing up like mushrooms in many sides of the society. Those groups which were once under oppression tried to establish their own status in society. De-centering makes the postmodern world more colorful than before.
3) Random play with signifier. Linguistic structuralism invented the concept of signifier and signified. ‘The phrase random play of signifier is used to refer to the haphazard circulation of free-floating, reference-free signs’[4] Postmodernism is playing jokes on signifier. Postmodernists state that signifier does not necessarily link to signified. Writers play with the words, artists play with colors and lines. All of them like deconstruction and celebrate fragmentation. The diversity of the world lies in the absence or empty of symbolic signified. The belief of meaningless leads to nihilism in philosophy. They distrust of all forms of expression and representations. They are just content with the visual pleasure of random play of signifier. People feel confused and hesitated in face of the random reality. Broken reality, broken consciousness, construct a fractured contemporary man.
[1] For further information, see Jean Baudrillard, Simulations, (New York: Semiotext(e). 1983).
[2] Mike Featherstone , Consumer Culture and Postmodernism , (London : Sage, 1991).68-69.
[3] Marcia A. Morgado, “Coming To Terms with Postmodern: Theories and Concepts of Contemporary Culture and Their Implications for Apparel Scholars”, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 14 (1996): 43.
[4] Marcia A. Morgado, 49.
Fashion in the Postmodern World
Fashion is not a stable concept that has a firm exact definition in a textbook. It is dynamic, changing with the development of society. As related to postmodernism, fashion is the central feature of postmodern culture. Fashion’s ‘insistence on novelty, replacement and transformation are paramount and infiltrate every sphere of social life’[1].In postmodern world, fashion is not only clothing, it is also ‘bodies, objects, and lifestyle; it is entertainment, art, morals, politics, economics, and science’[2]. As to me, fashion can be seen from two sides:
1) Fantasy-making machine
2) Money-making machine
[1] Marcia A. Morgado, 44.
[2] Ibid.
1960s Fashion
1960s is a turning point in fashion history. From that decade on, fashion has changed at a more rapid speed than before. This results in the proliferation and diversity of styles until the end of the century. ‘Then between 1960 and 1970, a radical shake-up occurred…there would be no one single trend, no one fashion but a kaleidoscope of possibilities, inextricably linked to all the various influences in other areas of people’s lives’[1].
This decade has so much relationship with Postmodernism. It actually starts postmodern fashion. Mass production shifts the focus of fashion from haute couture to mass fashion. The target of market changes to youth. Fashion is no long mysterious and superior. It flies into everyone’s home. In the world where people sway from reality and hyperreality and can never make sure what is real, they attempt to excavate themselves instead of searching ‘truth’ in outside world in vain. Fashion then becomes humanitarian, for it goes into the inner part of the common people- the identification of individual. Fashion becomes an attitude of life and a choice of personal statement- to care about your ‘self’ by dressing you well and by living an aesthetic life in a fashionable way. Kawakubo comments on the ‘gender-neutral’design of her kimono-inspired constructions: ‘Fashion design is not about revealing or accentuating the shape of a woman’s body, its purpose is to allow a person to be what they are’[2].
[1] Francois Baudot , A Century of Fashion, (London: Thames & Hudson, 1999).186.
[2] Bonnie English, A Cultural History of Fashion in the Twentieth Century:From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk, (New York : Berg, 2007). 123.
Major Fashion Styles in 1960s
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Style |
Designer |
Year |
Description |
Influences on fashion |
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Moongirl Look |
Angre Courreges |
1964 |
Silver ‘moongirl’ trousers, white catsuits and monochrome-striped miniskirts and dresses |
Classic icon of 1960s; multiple materials use; anti-aesthetics |
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The Biba Look
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Barbara Hulanicki |
1964, first store established |
Fresh little foals with long legs, bright faces and round dolly eyes; ‘Auntie Colours’[1] |
Bring fashion items to a wide market |
|
Miniskirt |
Mary Quant |
1965 |
A hemline well above the knees |
Youthfulness became new feminine ideal |
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Hippie |
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By 1965, hippies had become an established social group in the U.S |
Influence on braless ladies’ clothing styles, including bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye, and batik fabrics, as well as paisley prints; long hair; Nehru jacket; Native American jewelry, head scarves, headbands and long beaded necklaces |
Counter-cultural device; independence from societal norms; relation with popular music and culture[2] |
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Jeans |
|
By mid-sixties, became more popular |
blue jeans; jeans had the zipper down the front |
Counterpoint to the uniforms of the dominant culture; feminist weapon against restrictive fashion, sexual objectification, passive femininity[3] |
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T-shirt
(Beanbag) |
Gatti, Teodoro and Paolini |
1968-9 |
Plastic printing ink, plastic transfers and spray paint |
The quest to define ‘self’ amongst postmodernist youth culture; political propaganda;advertisement |
[1] These colours were blackish mulberries, blueberries, rusts and plums.
[2] For more information on hippie, see Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, Rev. ed.,(New Brunswick, N.J.: Rutgers University Press, 2003).192.
[3] Stuart Ewen, 79.
1960s look
Moon girl look. Inspired by space exploration and moon landing.
Also revivalof the Gothic look surcoat from the movie Camelot.
Mini skirt, love beads, long straight-ironed hair, often accompanied
by Go - Go boots. Introduced by London designer Mary Quant.
Hot pants, short shorts, butterfly collar blouses with billowy sleeves.
Levi's blue jeans become a form of protest and a virtual uniform
of the youth. Long shoulder length hair for men and women.
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Vintage shop in Stockholm
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I finished my defense of the paper on monday. Then I was struggling whether to go back to China or not for two days. Now I calm down. I will not see those informations regularly as before since they might be very distractive. I got the agreement of TIG and became an official member and a volunteer of translation from English to Chinese in the largest youth leader organization. This made me very happy. I think it will not cost me too much time and I can improve my translation skills which will definitely help me in the future. Now I almost finished everything, so I need to take up some new things to keep myself busy. I decide to write something on Swedish fashion.
Here comes the first issue---
Second Hand stores
Nowadays, 'Vintage' has become a style of fashion. It is interesting and attractive because of its history behind and nostalgic feelings it can provide. For me, every fashionable clothing can be seen as a form of bricolage which scrambles many pieces of historical fragments and takes on a look of modernism. But vintage style,the whole outfit as a unity, is a copy of a certain historical fashion. Of course, in order not to be boring, it can be matched with some new elements in accessories and decorations. The clothing might be old, but the vintage style can be creative and gives a new look.I do not think vintage clothing is so practical in daily wear,so I am not a crazy fan for it, but I do think it is interesting and it is cool to wear some 60s or 70s clothing to a nostalgic theme party.
BEYOND RETRO
Beyond Retro is London's leading provider of vintage clothing and opened his first store in Sweden in Åsögatan 2005. The clothes are from the 50s onwards and handpicked at various locations around the U.S. and Canada. It is cheap, there is a large selection and lots of wonderful discoveries, but I think there are also a lot of junk. When you visit Beyond Retro is to have plenty of time to find the true financial findings, you can easily spend a few hours and it is almost always difficult to go empty handed from here .
The chiffon dresses are very pretty, like a princess dress.
Boutique Två Tre Gånger
Prada, Dior, Mulberry, and Yves Saint Laurent, Boutique Two Three times has specialized in design vintage and second hand. Here you will find branded clothes, bags, accessories and party bladders to about one quarter of newprice.
Chanesse First & Second Hand Boutique
Chan Esse at Grev Turegatan is a small shop for those who are looking for unique design garments and accessories in good condition for a third of original price. Here you can find something like Chanel 2.55 or Mulberry Bayswatern at an affordable price. That's cool!
Emmaus Vintage
 
Emmaus Vintage is a small shop with great potential finds, trendy second hand clothes and accessories mixed with 50s -, 60s - and 70s- stuff. Emmaus Vintage is a part of Emmaus Solidarity activities and the purpose is to collect clothes and stuff to donate aid to refugees and war victims.
Filippa K Second Hand
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Filippa K is a famous Swedish fashion brand. Filippa K Second Hand opened the summer of 2008 and the shop is run in cooperation with Eva Billing, which also operates Judit Second Hand. The range consists of the entire Filippa K concept of Woman, Man, Ease and Accessories, but there is also a selection of utplockade vintage jewelry, shoes and bags. Old Filippa K clothing submitted sold on a commission basis, so go there if you are tired of a garment from Filippa K as you hang up in the closet. The store is part of the Filippa K's increasing awareness of the environment and non-profit interest. A really nice shop where you can find some very nice clothes at good prices. |
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